![]() ![]() The guide rod impacting the top of the hole where it should pass straight through.ģ. The front of the slide where the guide rod should pass.Ģ. I'd entertain the idea of switching to a captured guide rod, but I don't know that it would actually fix this issue.Ĭarver Customs has already offered to refund me for the rod should I wish to return it.Įmail sent to Lone Wolf to see if there may be a milling error.ġ. The rod (Tungsten from Carver Customs) itself does in fact fit in the hole on its own. ![]() This impaction prevents the slide from fully cycling - or even being able to load a snap-cap from a magazine. This results in the rod impacting the slide (at the front) where it should instead go straight through and protrude beyond the front of the slide. The spring tension against the end of the guide rod (at the rear) where it contacts the barrel results in a minor upwards pivot that is emphasized the further from the barrel lug. After assembly, it seems there's an issue. Received the last of my parts to get this build minimally functional, or so I thought. If anyone's interested, I'll try to remember to update with any further progress, but I've been shooting too much 10mm lately, so I'll probably shoot something else the next trip or two, unless 10mm drops some in price.Hey everyone, looking for some input on my G20L build. Will also bring a very accurate KKM barrel to try in the slide for next time. Or maybe the Glock adjustable rear sight I put on the LW slide is bouncing around a bit?Īfter cleaning, I may install a fixed rear sight and see if that helps. Not sure if that would be enough to cause. It seems there’s slightly more play between the barrel and the slide opening. My final issue is the mediocre accuracy of the LW slide compared to the factory slide. second problem solved? I’ll try polishing the rest of the engagement areas of the LW barrel and see if that eliminates the failure to RTB. I did discover, though, that the problem went away entirely if I swapped the LW barrel for a Glock factory 10mm barrel. This was with the RSA that came with the parts kit, but it also happened with an NDZ 20 lb RSA from the factory G20.3. After firing, the trigger wouldn’t engage, and I had to take my thumb and push the slide forward a millimeter or two. I did have several occasions, though, where the slide failed to completely return to battery. Not a single failure to ignite this time, and no failures to feed. I took Blazer 200 grain and American Eagle 180 grain for ammo. I also polished the barrel chamber and feed ramp with Flitz polish and a Dremel with a felt polishing tip.įor the second trip, I took the LW frame, slide, and barrel, but also brought a G20.3. When I returned from the range, I cleaned the frame, completely disassembled and cleaned the slide, removed the channel liner and installed a new one, making sure I had it fully seated just in case that contributed to the initial problem (didn’t read about the S&B hard primers until a day or so later). I only had S&B 10mm for that outing, and later found several online complaints about S&B 10mm having hard primers. Had numerous failures to feed and failures to ignite despite a good dimple on the primer. Not sure if the third party purchased their kits from LW, or if they both get them from the same distributor/manufacturer.įor the first range trip, I took the LW slide, a LW 10mm threaded barrel, and a LW Timberwolf Large frame. ![]() Although it wasn’t described as a LW kit, the packaging and printing on the individual parts bags were identical to what you get from LW. LW was out of 10mm slide parts kit, but I found a parts kit from a third party. Took about 6 weeks to arrive, which was within the delivery timeframe for flash nitriding on the website. Ordered a bare OEM version LW AW 20.3 10mm slide in April and also ordered the flash nitride finish. ![]()
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